”We are a bit like our food,” says Wong, the manager of the Chinese takeaway on Peckham High Street. Like the rice, chow mein and other Chinese dishes served in the diner, he says his family will always be seen as Chinese even though they have lived in Britain for the better part of two decades. 

“We come from China and we have lived in the United Kingdom for more than 15 years, but it wasn’t until four years ago that we took over the business,” said Wong. It has given them “a sense of belonging to the new community” even as it accentuates the feeling of being “marginalised”, he adds.

Wong says the family starts preparing for the day an hour before the restaurant opens its doors at one. “We work with a corporation run by Hong Kongers. They provided all kinds of ingredients such as the pastrami we used in our curry dishes, as well as the unique chinese seasonings like X.O. sauce,” he says, as he carries boxes of frozen ingredients from the truck into the kitchen.

“Before opening (the restaurant), all we have to do is unpack the food. We only start making dishes once we receive orders, just to be sure that our food is warm and perfect when served,” he added.

This simple belief – in fresh food, cooked to the customer’s specifications – is, Wong believes, a formula for success.

So just how successful is his takeaway?

Chinese people make up just 4% of Peckham but there is a decided appetite for Chinese food with one estimate indicating more than a dozen Chinese restaurants in the neighbourhood. But Wong says, it can feel lonely at times. “There isn’t much Chinese around and that’s why sometime we feel marginalised.”

He adds that the restaurant struggled a bit at first. “But thankfully not just Asian, plenty of Peckham residents support us now. In fact, the majority of our customers are locals. I am pretty sure that everyone who lives nearby has tasted our cooking.”

Sometimes, he says, he is surprised by appreciative feedback from white customers. “Take one of our dishes – chicken in oyster sauce – the chicken blended with seafood flavour might be daunting to Western (people). However, they said it actually tasted nice after giving it a try.” 

One of the reasons Wong and his family decided to run the restaurant was to promote their own native dishes. “I would say that the Chinese cookery is an ‘art’ and the dish is really a ‘masterpiece’,” says Wong, listing the multiple techniques he uses, including steaming, braising, stir-frying, roasting. “I can’t even name them all (but) I just wish everyone can have a chance to taste my favourite culinary art.”

But this is increasingly challenging because of price rise and the cost of living crisis. “Our ingredients come from Hong Kong by plane directly and they are becoming much more expensive nowadays,” says Wong.

Even so, he is clear on one point: “No matter what challenge we face, I am sure we will find a way to overcome it. Shutting down Hong Kong Garden will never be one of our options.”